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Measurements of the road bike without sloping. |
Dimensions Of the Bicycle
Physically we are all unique, with height,
leg length, arm length, and trunk length as the principle variables
to bear in mind on a bike when we are trying to improve our performance
on it, as well as riding it more comfortably, which makes it crucial
to be careful when choosing a bike and our position on it. There are
various ways of knowing what frame size is best adapted to your physique,
although they are not infallible. Furthermore you should bear in mind
that once you have established your correct frame size and posture,
you will need a short period of time to adapt to it. Without wishing
to go into detail about the different methods and programs which exist
with this objective in mind, I would like to give you some sort of
idea about how to find your correct frame size. Later, by changing
the saddle height and the length of the handlebars stem, which will
change your position relative to the bike, you will be able to adapt
to it perfectly.
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| Measurements
of the rider. |
Measurements of the bike.
- Frame height = length of the inside leg (
A ) x 0.65 (except for bikes with a sloping frame *).
- Frame length (top tube) The same as B .
Usually 2 or 3 cm. more .
- Saddle height = length of inside leg x 0.885
- Cranks = inside leg length= <20%
- Stem length = arm length ( C ) x 0.203
* Owing to the different types of angles
which currently exist because of sloping frames, the height of the
top tube can vary. But to find out what your frame size is for this
kind of bicycle, the inside leg length is still fundamental. The
only thing which changes is the multiplication coefficent, which
will depend on the brand of frame.
Inside leg length = you should be barefoot when you
make this measurement. Stand with your back touching a wall and make
a chalk mark where the top of your inside leg is in contact with it.
Then with a ruler you measure the distance between the mark and the
ground.
Trunk length = this is the distance between a new
mark on the wall at you shoulder height (just where the joint is)
and the top of your inside leg.
Arm length = the distance from the shoulder height
mark to a third point which you make with a chalk, holding it with
your fist clenched.
Although the frame is the essential part of the bike, itıs useful
to bear in mind other characteristics which will also change depending
on your physique. I am talking about:
- The width of the handlebars: Usually this
is is 42 centimentres across (it is measured in the lower part
of the tubing from centre to centre). This varies depending on
the size of the rider, with one of 44 being used when the rider
is tall (over 1 metre 85). But bear in mind your wind resistance
will increase because the frontal surface area is greater.
- Handlebar stems: Amongst the pros, there is
a tendency to use frames which are slightly too small for you
and adapt it to your physical dimensions by using a higher saddle
and longer stem. The standard measurements are 10 to 11 centimetres,
but you will see amongst the pros some are longer, 13 or 14 centimetres.
The idea is that the bike will be more responsive because it has
a smaller size.
- Crank length: Normal crank length is 170 (millimetres)
- the length of the crank from centre of the pedal axle to the
centre of the bottom bracket axle. This can change for two reasons:
the riders height, which may make it increase by 2.5 millimetres
(see previous paragraph) or in time trials, when cranks are again
2.5 millimetres longer than those usually used.
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| Measurements for the mountainbike |
Mountain bike sizes are smaller, because
they need to be stiffer and respond better when steered in rough terrain,
which means they are less aerodynamic and slower. The measurement
which should be borne in mind is the height of the saddle, which is
generally a couple of centimetres lower, permitting the rider to control
the bike better. There are generally three standard frame sizes, which
are not so adapted to specific measurements as road bikes. Then, the
seatpost length and stem length are changed depending on the size
of the rider.
You should be aware that the angles of the different tubes that make
up a frame vary a little from one brand to another. I am talking in
very general terms here and discussing angles is always complicated,
because the same bike manufacturer will use several.
What I mean by this is that you should not get too worrried by these
minor details, because you can often resolve any problems by simply
adjusting the handlebars and the saddle. What is important is to have
a bike which is basically adapted to your physique, and then itıs
up to you to sort out the minor details in order to feel well suited
to it, which you will do when you have found a balance between your
position on the bike and your maximum power output.
Orientation measurements of the biclycles
Height
( cm.) |
Road
bike (cm.) |
Mountain
bike (inch) |
160
- 165
165 - 170
170 - 175
175 - 180
180 - 185
185 - 190
190 - |
47
- 51
51 - 53
53 - 55
55 - 57
57 - 59
59 - 61
61 - |
14
16 - 17
18
18 - 19
20
20 - 22
22 - |
I'm going to finish by giving
you an example. Which concerns a famous figure in cycling,
Miguel Indurain. Miguel, when riding his time trial bike, was always
slightly less aerodynamic than he could have been, because he would
raise the handlebars a little. This was because if he was totally
doubled over the bike when he rode a time trial, he couldnıt use
all his power for pedalling, and he did not have the ideal conditions
for breathing, either
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